How to install the Fold Down Seat in 67-68 Fastbacks
Identification by Model Year
If you remember nothing else...
Parts needed to Convert to Fold Down Seat by Model Year
How to restore your Fold Down Seat
How to get it in the car
How to make Adjustments
Reproduction parts evaluation
How to make use of 65 panels
Fold Down Parts For Sale
FOR SHAME! The Ignorant or Liars
The pictures below are reduced resolution and are posted like this just to expedite posting them. Minimal information is included as well for the same reason. I'm working on a new article that will hopefully be complete soon and published in an upcoming magazine article. Once the article is complete and submitted I will update this page with full resolution pictures and more detailed text.
Also, please excuse the mess. My car is completely disassembled for restoration and is being stripped right now as I am doing this. I already had all this stuff out of the car and just put it back in to take these pictures.
If you are reading this you likely already emailed me, please feel free to do so again if you need further clarification to anything below.
Start with the stationary seat and its retaining bracket removed. The stationary retaining bracket was held to the bracket behind the trim panel by 2 bolts that go into the side horizontally. The fold down seat latch is bolted down into this same bracket vertically. Unfortunately there is not enough room to get these bolts in without removing the quarter trim panel first.
With the quarter trim removed, you can access the bracket welded to the inner wheelhouse.
Latch installed. The original latches have round holes that do not have any adjustment.
This is the latch installed and quarter trim back on. Notice the latch is all the way to the rear of the hole in the trim. Unfortunately for me, the bracket welded to the inner wheelhouse is offset about 3/8" as measured from the rear of the car and compared to the other side. This means I need to either cut the fiberglass trim, or remove the bracket and reweld it in the correct position. I am going to reweld the bracket, but have not done so yet. No pics for that, but it will happen.
Another shot showing that the latch is not in position to mount the latch trim cover plate.
The new latch cover plate does not fit flush against the fiberglass trim.
I bent the cover plate to fit flush the way I wanted it to.
Notice the holes (rounded area) at the bottom are not going to work with putting a screw through.
Fortunately the holes were in the wrong location anyhow, so I used a scribe to mark where I will drill to retain the bottom of the cover plate.
The driver side went together smoothly, everything lined up and the coverplate is installed flush.
This bracket was used to hold the old stationary seat to the floor, and will be used again for the fold down seat.
This bracket was used to hold the old fiber filler board/package tray through the screw hole. Now it will be used for the rear fold down panel. Note this bracket, it will be mentioned again below.
The back of the seat has a loop at the top that slides over a prong on the seat frame, and a tab at the bottom that gets screwed to the chrome trim on the fold down.
The prong for the top loop is on the left as pictured.
This is the bracket attached at the bottom.
Middle panel, front panel, and seat back ready to go in as a single unit. I chose to go this way for this article. If I did it again, I'd to it one piece at a time.
Middle panel is bolted to the floor with 2 bolts. Do not tighten yet, you may need some shims under here.
These clips on the bottom of the rear panel slide underneath the bracket that I said to remember above. The rear most bolt needs to be removed first, we'll tighten back through later.
With the front of the rear panel raised, slide it back so that the clips pictured above slide under the brackets welded to the floor.
Now lay everything flat and check for level. Also check how the seat fits against the contour lines in the fiberglass panels on each side.
On the driver side, the seat was pretty level with the contour in the fiberglass.
On the passenger side, the seat was low. I stacked shims until they were level with the shim on the driver side, in this case I needed 2 shims.
2 shims are slid under the hinge bracket for the middle panel. Notice that the rear panel was removed to do this. This is why I did not tighten anything down previously. Also note that I could have measured for level before I put the rear panel in the first time, but I wanted to check for level both front to back and side to side. The only way to do that was with everything in. I'm only going to tighten everything down one time.
Seat is level on the driver side.
Seat is level on the passenger side.
Now we'll prep for the trap door. Put the U-nuts in the bracket over the opening for the trap door.
Assemble the trap door with the hinges and latch. Do not tighten anything yet.
Bolt the hinges to the brackets.
The trap door rubbed against the fiberglass trim panel half way up. Adjust the hinges so that it will raise and not rub.
Adjust the latch and the latch catch so that the trap door is shut flush with the fiberglass trim panels on the front side, so that the latch engages on the back side, and that it is tight enough not to rattle.
Here is everything together.
In the trunk, install the trap door prop rod if you choose. It will not be functional without the bracket below. Since it will not be functional, you can leave it off or put it on. With it on, it is useless, but may not attract attention to the fact that the car is a conversion without the bracket. With it off, it will be obvious, but it saves a few bucks and gives a tad more trunk room. Personal decision there.
Here is the bracket needed to hold the prop rod and should be spot welded into position. As mentioned elsewhere on my website, these are darn near impossible to find.
One last thing. You will want to adjust the stop bumper on the front panel. With the seat in the raised position, you want this stop bumper to seat against the support plate on the rear panel with the seat latched. Be careful here, if the stop bumper is not out far enough, when the seat is pushed up to be latched the latch peg will push against the chrome trim and it will crack. If the bumper is out too far, the seat will either not latch at all, or latch but not be secure and rattle.
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Copyright © 2007 Sam Griffith